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August 7th, 2001, 09:49 PM
#11
Inactive Member
Okay, now I don't want to be too silly, but if you are looking for some insulation from a metal pail that is round, shouldn't you try an insulated ice holder? You know the kind that sits on the table when you are serving cocktails? It allows the ice to stay frozen outside in 90 degree heat, wouldn't the opposite apply if you could theoretically get the air cool enough?
Also if you're looking for something cheap and round, why not take a pail or something and fill the air space with expandable foam? A gallon paint can is like a buck-25 and the foam is like 5 bucks, and you would have enough foam for 100 of these things.
It's just an idea.
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August 8th, 2001, 12:16 AM
#12
Inactive Member
I'm worried that many "found" plastic or rubber items won't withstand the heat. Stock air boxes will be fine though.
As for insulating the tin can, I've thought of coating the inside with latex rubber, like the stuff you coat tool handles with.
I believe sonnyballs asked DEI about using exhaust wrap on intakes and they said it was a bad idea because the wrap is meant to keep heat in, not reject it from the outside.
Greg
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August 8th, 2001, 11:48 PM
#13
Inactive Member
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August 9th, 2001, 12:53 PM
#14
Inactive Member
Too bad this doesn't apply to all your integra's -
On my '91 Civic, I took some precision instrument packaging foam (from an AIT brand OCR reader) and made an upside down "L" to isolate the K&N from the engine bay. Recall that on the pre-92 Civic cars, the battery is right next to the airbox.
My foam "L" sits on top of the battery (the vertical part of the "L") then the horizontal goes across the intake piping and across the front part of the strut tower. With the hood down, it compresses the foam about 1" to make a decent seal.
With my thermocouple probe, I measured a 25*F reduction in temperature with my foam creating the "cold cavity".
However, this vast drop in temperature was only sitting at a stoplight or in slow moving rush-hour traffic. At hwy. speed the temp difference ranged from 5-10* depending on drafting the car in front, or not.
I also made a wind deflector to channel the air from the bumper "grille" to the cavity in the corner where an AEM filter setup sits as well as drilling several large additional holes to promote more air flow up to the filter. This probably accounts for the minor temp drop at speed.
Cost - $0 Picture upon request.
-TJ
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August 9th, 2001, 03:16 PM
#15
Inactive Member
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Holden:
I believe sonnyballs asked DEI about using exhaust wrap on intakes and they said it was a bad idea because the wrap is meant to keep heat in, not reject it from the outside.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Their intake wrap looks a lot like the insulation I bought for my house radiatior. And it's made to keep the heat in.
I'm not sure why something that's made to insulate wouldn't insulate in both ways. For instance a blanket can be used to keep something cold, from warming up. And when you're a warm object (like a person) a blanket helps keep the heat in.
One property of aluminized (or reflective) objects is the ability to resist heat source like the sun better than a dark object. But the sun's not a factor under the hood. (or at least, not in the way of the sun diretly shining on the engine)
Oh well, someone here can probably sort it out for me.
I was just reading the new Motor Trend, and they were testing the air conditioning of different vehicles (suvs?) in Death Valley.
They'd let the vehicle sit in the Desert for like 10 minutes with the windows rolled up and then turn on the engine and AC and see how fast, and how much the vehicles cooled.
The white vehicle, started off 5 degrees cooler, just virtually from it's reflective color.
[This message has been edited by reddelsol (edited August 09, 2001).]
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